Aug 31--Who has the best fried chicken in New York? It’s really hard to pinpoint one in this most glorious of food cities, but Filipino American chef Alvin Cailan’s version has clearly sent writer Hannah Goldfield to adjectival paroxysms in the New Yorker: “The first time I ate it, I marvelled at the mountainous cragginess of the exceptionally thick, crispy crust, and at the carnal pleasure of the fat it had absorbed in the fryer, cut with a sprinkling of zingy Cajun herbs and spices, twinkling red like the glitter on a burlesque dancer’s corset.
“The second time I ate it, for I could not resist, the batter was somehow even crunchier, cracking off of the juicy meat in salty shales the size of oyster shells. In a town that’s grown crowded with great fried chicken—Southern, Korean, quadruple-fried and served cold, at the bar at Momofuku Ko—it’s all the more impressive for standing out.”
Cailan’s famed chicken can be found at the Usual, recently opened in the Nolitan Hotel.
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And thanks Alvin for taking your culinary talent from Los Angeles to New York.